Peru-Day 7/Quito-Day 1

We left Cusco at 7, bound for the airport. The president of Mexico was to arrive the same day, so there was no parking of vehicles and high security. We checked in quickly, and awaited our flight to Quito, Ecuador.

Upon arrival, we passed through immigration with a woman who would shine in a position at the DMV. Awaiting us at the exit gates was our guide and diver, Andrew, an exceedingly friendly man happy to assist our every need. He filled us in on Ecuadorian customs, one of which was no drinking on Sundays, a two-year-old presidential ruling due to too many hungover employees on Monday. Of course, it was Sunday.

Quito is probably best comparable to the quick changing neighborhoods of Los Angeles. One wrong turn and you're in Watts.

Granted our hotel was in a nice area, with a farmacia nearby. I could not shake the tension neck and headache so after checking in, we hit up the store to replenish out ibuprofen supply and decided to dine at the hotel restaurant for dinner.

Our hotel was only suites, so our room was more like a loft on the 8th floor. In theory, great, but there were plenty of negatives that I'll post on Trip Advisor.

Andrew had said a light drink, like beer or wine, was permissible with a meal. So our hopes were high that we could enjoy a glass with our meal. Not so according to the server. Of course we respected the local traditions and had water in a wine glass. The food itself was not memorable.

Ugly sad face due to our lack of vino. And a really lame bartender, exiting stage left.

Baked brie. We enjoyed until the middle turned out to be cold still. Didn't both me, but Scott was underwhelmed.

Upon leaving for our room, a small group of people had gathered in the bar, drinking. Beers, wines, cocktails. I politely asked how they were able to obtain the prohibited drinks and was met with a look of confusion-they had no problems ordering. It felt like selective prohibition. The bartender spoke virtually no English so after a made game of gestures and angry face making, we were granted one drink each, with a big fat index finger reinforcement. We'd never worked so hard for a glass of wine and beer before.

The wine mended some of my aches and after a bath and more E! Emmy red carpet coverage reruns, we slept, to be ready for our 630 pick up to the airport, which would take is to the Galapagos Islands.

Peru-Day 6

We woke at 6 am, likely due to our recent schedule of early rising. I had not slept well, worrying about Scott´s health, and wondering about getting him some antibiotics at his mom´s suggestion, for if the illness was indeed due to the bites. We breakfasted in the hotel, and he took it easy during the early morning, taking a bath for the body aches while I went to the local lavanderia to see about our stinky clothes. For 48 soles or $24, I´ll have 15 kilos of laundry done by noon today, as I write this post, finally catching up on the past 6 days.

Though we cancelled our half day tour, I am grateful Scott can rest and it is on a day that doesn´t include any travel or excursions. I have some guilt for spending so much time in the business office writing these posts, but I forgot (again) to buy a travel journal so I want to record as much as I can so as not to forget.

I am very proud of the fact that a staff member at our hotel said I spoke Spanish very well. HAH! I think I just sound good saying it and do it with confidence, as my actual knowledge is very limited to common phrases and greetings. Even still, it was a huge compliment. I feel badly being in a foreign land and not able to communicate effectively, as it feels slightly irresponsible and hypocritical. But, I am making an effort and the subtitles on the English tv stations help reinforce, as well as the Spanish saturation the past 4 days hiking.

As the day wore on and Scott felt better, I successfully picked up our clean laundry and we explored Cusco on our own midday.

I read "The Language of Flowers" that day. Solid book for a hotel selection.

It was raining lightly and cool outside, so we made our way back to the hotel so Scott could tackle a work emergency and I could enjoy one of the hotels book in their library with some tea. We called an early bird dinner having skipped lunch, and dined on a Peruvian club sandwich (theirs includes fried egg) and chicken soup.

We spent the remainder of the evening resting, reading, watching E!, and rearranging my luggage into Scott's and our two backpacks, due to the broken zipper, again, ready for an early departure to the airport to begin our journey to the Galapagos.

Peru-Day 5-Machu Picchu

I had requested a wake up call for 515 am as our meeting time with the group was at 620 to finally enter Machu Picchu and in order to get breakfast. In our first hotel and in this one, we did not have a clock. It made me crazy the first night when I would anxiously wake to see what time it was anticipating the call and not knowing what time it was. Again, this was the case. Again, I woke often, rising to judge the sunlight outside, anticipating the call. I dozed off and on and woke again with it bright. I hopped on the phone calling reception asking for the time-6 a.m. FUDGE. We flew out of bed Home Alone style, throwing clothes on, repacking bags, while simultaneously using the bathroom and checking out, to meet the party on time. I still cannot believe it worked out. Granted, our guide knew what hotel we were at and he could have come after us, but it would have delayed the group and I didn't want to be that couple.

We boarded our bus that took us into Machu Picchu and began another mini hike up into the ruins. Like anything so remote and preserved, seeing it first hand will always never compare to pictures. We soaked it in, reveling again at the sheer labor these people had over a century to build this empire, and not only that, but in the locations they chose. It really is beyond my comprehension and completely humbling.

I promise, it's not a green screen.

The entire group.

We toured the grounds for a few hours, grabbed lunch, and headed back to Aguas Calientes to enjoy the city for a few hours before our departure.

The main square in Aguas Calientes

Made a few stops here, but the sign lies, it was most definitely not 24 hours.

Our transition back to Cusco was via train to Otelttaytompo (sp) and then make the final drive by van into the city. It was then that Scott´s health began to further decline. Showing symptoms of the flu-body aches, upset stomach, it made for a long 2 hour train ride and additional 2 hour van ride. We checked into our hotel around 615 pm and he was down for the count.

Again, gracefully, the staff spoke enough English for me to ask questions about finding a pharmacy and likely what to ask for. I ventured out into the main square in search of the pharmacia and used my best Spanish along with a great game of sick charades with the pharmacist to bring back something called NastyFlu, somewhat comparable to TheraFlu, Gatorade, and Sprite. He slept, I peppered the hotel staff with questions about finding a laundromat, luggage repair (broke my zipper on my suitcase-main one of course) and canceling our half day tour of the city.

Thankfully, this illness/allergic reaction to the bites/altitude sickness/whatever struck on the best day it could have, where our tour could be cancelled and he could just rest. Too rub salt in an open wound, Scott´s work had an emergency situation that required him to get to the business center in our hotel where emails flew back and forth at 10 pm on a Friday night, PST, 12 am, in Peru. We went to bed without dinner-none wanted from him, no hunger again for me, watching one of the only English channels-E!, which only airs E! News and Fashion Police.

Peru-Day 4

The next day, I shared my head/neck/and shoulders struggle with our Argentinian friend, Juan, and he told a guide, who brought me a 400 milligram pill of what was full of the good stuff. It alleviated about 90% of my pain and I am convinced made it possible for me to take on the third day of hiking. I did not see elephants but definitely felt more like myself, and slightly on air.

 This day we bid goodbye to our porters and horses, as tonight we would arrive in Aguas Calientes, the city beneath Machu Pichu and ZOMG have a hotel with showers. I think everyone had a bit of pep in their step. Juan presented the wranglers and staff with our collected gratuity, and we took pictures, thanking them for the really outstanding meals and service they provided.

Farewell to the wranglers and our backup horses.

One in our party opted out of the final day, taking a taxi and meeting us at the train station that would take us to Aguas Calientes, due to her own ailments.

Day three was to be a combination of uphill and downhill, and I found it to be my favorite in terms of its difficulty. Blessedly, there was a tremendous amount of flat points in the beginning, which allowed us to reserve our energy for the midpoint of the day. Steep grades were tough and throughout the trip I dutifully pulled rank as the caboose, but it was easier that way, taking the breaks I needed to restore my oxygen supply and carry on.

Humid weather, walking among the cloud forest.

Reaching the pass on the third day was symbolic in that we had reached our final highest point. We shared pictures, toured an Inca sight, and feasted on probably our favorite meal at a rest stop along the way.  From this vista point, we could see Machu Picchu Mountain in the distance, though low clouds prevented us from seeing the actual site.

Ruins near Llaqtapata, where we had lunch and views of Machu Picchu and Salkantay Moutain.

Machu Picchu Mountain

Delicious lunch of avocado salad, fish, and limeade.

Rest.

Following lunch was another two hour descent to the river below, where we welcomed a refreshing dip in, some feet, and our guide, native of course, an entire swim. It was here Scott realized the seriousness of his bites. His ankle and swelled to beyond cankle status, from what we think was an allergic reaction to the mosquito bites. Balancing on fatigued bones and a swollen, pained ankle made for the final haul of the journey comparable to Kerri Strug's Olympic gold vault dismount. Maybe I am being dramatic but it felt that way!

We reached the river!

Mosquito bite aftermath on poor Scott.

Never the complainer.

Our guide, the local, the only one to fully submerge.

We reached the train station, and having missed ours due to the crowd, enjoyed a happy hour of sorts with local brews before boarding the one hour ride into Aguas Calientes.

Crazy train station

Aguas Calientes, though a tourist meeting point for Machu Picchu, was colorful and full of life. The streets were narrow, reminding me of what I believe Europe would be like, and lots of activity-traveling bands, street vendors, eager restauranteurs. Ultimately, we just needed to rinse the camping off of us and get to our hotel.

This was our first evening without the entire group, and following our lengthy showers, we changed into total tourist hiking clothes and descended to of course, the hotel bar. There we tried Peru´s signature cocktail, a Pisco Sour, which is tasty, and enjoyed a few Manhattan´s and glasses of wine. Dinner was excellent-beef, rice, vegetables, and fries with a "caprese" salad and chocolate cake. We went to bed full and cozy, ready for our early wake up call.

Hotel bar

Complimentary pisco sours 

CLEAN! And wearing the same shoes as the hike, such a tourista.

Much needed.

A note about our hotels. I am so, so, so, glad we use a travel agent. There are virtually no surprises and we are always in premium hotels with  English speaking staff, greeters upon our journey with printed (non handwritten) signs and paperwork required. It has made arriving at each hotel a relief to see it is not the Peruvian version of a Motel 6. Granted, some people like the hostel route, and more power to them. I like hotels with private bathroom, vanity sets, meals, a hot shower, Wi-Fi access, and concierge.