Galapagos-Day 2

As has been the theme of the trip, we woke early and breakfasted at around 7 am. I should note that by now we'd determined Peruvian coffee was supremely better than Ecuadorian.

After breakfast we both fell asleep again hard, for nearly a 3 hour nap. Hey, it was vacation and we put this leg of the journey last for a reason!

After waking and shaking off the grogginess, we decided to check out another area to see the famous tortoises, at the Charles Darwin Nature Center. A 15 minute walk led us there, and the trip was made. These beasts were like nothing I'd ever seen-dinosauresque with a face like Voldemort. It was mind boggling to behold. We walked among the various areas where researchers are successfully breeding various species from the different islands, to then release back into the wild. The preserve also played host to several types of iguanas and until recently, Lonesome George.

Pictures don't do it justice-these things are huge!

On our way back, we checked out a local cemetery and stopped for lunch and split the special- a fresh fish ceviche, soup, popcorn (south Americans love their popcorn) and dessert. This was our BEST meal so far in Ecuador. The ceviche was perfectly limey and fresh, and Scott declared the soups broth the best he'd ever had. And the entire meal with a large beer was only $8.

Above ground graves-you can't dig into volcanic rock.

South Americans really love popcorn as a side.

 We returned to the hotel to rest and read (finishing Game of Thrones and starting a 9th grade harlequin romance, the only English selection in their library) and build up our appetite for dinner. We also secured reservations for the next days excursion to Santa Isabela island.

We knew we wanted to eat seafood for dinner, being the specialty of the region, and so after happy hour at El Jardin, we walked to Cafe del Mar, where we shared a plate of octopus, shrimp, and fish, washed down with a small and large beer. Very good, and smoky from the open flame, but the lunch ceviche still reined supreme.

Quito Day 2/ Galapagos Day 1

Andrew, ever the dependent man, was on time and ready to go at 630 am. We navigated the Quito airport and were checked in in under 25 minutes, even after he had said we'd need to be patient (or practically pleaded in advance for our patience) as he filled out lengthy paperwork for the trip. We think he is used to rather impatient people, as it was a pretty speedy process.

After budding Andrew adieu, we boarded our flight and were on our way.

Flying into the Galapagos was beautiful. I saw a huge pod of dolphins nearly 300 in number, as we descended. Foreigners are required to pay $100 as an entrance fee to the national park upon entrance, for what I assume allows you to enter the many reserves. After obtaining our luggage we boarded a bus, then private ferry, and finally a truck to deliver us to the hotel.

Not our boat; we traveled by private ferry.

Much of the Galapagos Islands are national parks, but there is still some that is private, such as the town we stayed in on Santa Cruz Island, Puerto Aroyo. The islands aren't huge either, we drove from one end to the other in 45 minutes. It was crazy to see the scenery change from arid desert at the airport to lush greenery and botanical flowers as we drive south.

The hotel was the most simplistic of our accommodations this trip, but clean and neat. Unfortunately, the street in front was being torn up and actual dynamite used to eradicate the volcanic rock-something we can't fault anyone for, but a bummer for noise, from 7 am to 10 pm.

After checking in and enjoying a cocktail (now Monday) we set off to find some tortoises and wildlife.

A suggestion from the bartender was Tortuga Bay, a 30 minute paver road that led to a remote beach, lagoon, and haven for iguanas. We saw crabs, pelicans, and finches and other birds galore...but no tortugas.

So many finches.

The only place you'll find cactus trees. Straight out of Dr. Seuss books.

We stumbled upon quite the iguana population. I wanted to turn back because it did not interest me to walk through there with my toes exposed, but we find a path to veer around them.

Walking on the lava was treacherous-it was brittle and deceivingly not always firm. I put my foot through a hole and still carry a bruise and wound. Here I am soaking it in the lagoon.

Pelicans everywhere.

Much like Hawaii or other islands, the weather changes quickly, from blue skies to rain. After about an hour or two of wandering the beach and the menacing clouds above, we turned back, exploring the small town and local lifestyle.

By evening our early rising and traveling fatigue caught up to us and we crashed early.

Peru-Day 7/Quito-Day 1

We left Cusco at 7, bound for the airport. The president of Mexico was to arrive the same day, so there was no parking of vehicles and high security. We checked in quickly, and awaited our flight to Quito, Ecuador.

Upon arrival, we passed through immigration with a woman who would shine in a position at the DMV. Awaiting us at the exit gates was our guide and diver, Andrew, an exceedingly friendly man happy to assist our every need. He filled us in on Ecuadorian customs, one of which was no drinking on Sundays, a two-year-old presidential ruling due to too many hungover employees on Monday. Of course, it was Sunday.

Quito is probably best comparable to the quick changing neighborhoods of Los Angeles. One wrong turn and you're in Watts.

Granted our hotel was in a nice area, with a farmacia nearby. I could not shake the tension neck and headache so after checking in, we hit up the store to replenish out ibuprofen supply and decided to dine at the hotel restaurant for dinner.

Our hotel was only suites, so our room was more like a loft on the 8th floor. In theory, great, but there were plenty of negatives that I'll post on Trip Advisor.

Andrew had said a light drink, like beer or wine, was permissible with a meal. So our hopes were high that we could enjoy a glass with our meal. Not so according to the server. Of course we respected the local traditions and had water in a wine glass. The food itself was not memorable.

Ugly sad face due to our lack of vino. And a really lame bartender, exiting stage left.

Baked brie. We enjoyed until the middle turned out to be cold still. Didn't both me, but Scott was underwhelmed.

Upon leaving for our room, a small group of people had gathered in the bar, drinking. Beers, wines, cocktails. I politely asked how they were able to obtain the prohibited drinks and was met with a look of confusion-they had no problems ordering. It felt like selective prohibition. The bartender spoke virtually no English so after a made game of gestures and angry face making, we were granted one drink each, with a big fat index finger reinforcement. We'd never worked so hard for a glass of wine and beer before.

The wine mended some of my aches and after a bath and more E! Emmy red carpet coverage reruns, we slept, to be ready for our 630 pick up to the airport, which would take is to the Galapagos Islands.

Peru-Day 6

We woke at 6 am, likely due to our recent schedule of early rising. I had not slept well, worrying about Scott´s health, and wondering about getting him some antibiotics at his mom´s suggestion, for if the illness was indeed due to the bites. We breakfasted in the hotel, and he took it easy during the early morning, taking a bath for the body aches while I went to the local lavanderia to see about our stinky clothes. For 48 soles or $24, I´ll have 15 kilos of laundry done by noon today, as I write this post, finally catching up on the past 6 days.

Though we cancelled our half day tour, I am grateful Scott can rest and it is on a day that doesn´t include any travel or excursions. I have some guilt for spending so much time in the business office writing these posts, but I forgot (again) to buy a travel journal so I want to record as much as I can so as not to forget.

I am very proud of the fact that a staff member at our hotel said I spoke Spanish very well. HAH! I think I just sound good saying it and do it with confidence, as my actual knowledge is very limited to common phrases and greetings. Even still, it was a huge compliment. I feel badly being in a foreign land and not able to communicate effectively, as it feels slightly irresponsible and hypocritical. But, I am making an effort and the subtitles on the English tv stations help reinforce, as well as the Spanish saturation the past 4 days hiking.

As the day wore on and Scott felt better, I successfully picked up our clean laundry and we explored Cusco on our own midday.

I read "The Language of Flowers" that day. Solid book for a hotel selection.

It was raining lightly and cool outside, so we made our way back to the hotel so Scott could tackle a work emergency and I could enjoy one of the hotels book in their library with some tea. We called an early bird dinner having skipped lunch, and dined on a Peruvian club sandwich (theirs includes fried egg) and chicken soup.

We spent the remainder of the evening resting, reading, watching E!, and rearranging my luggage into Scott's and our two backpacks, due to the broken zipper, again, ready for an early departure to the airport to begin our journey to the Galapagos.